History
Since ancient times gold and silver have been used as decoration in the clothing and textiles of kings, leaders, nobility and people of status. Many of these elegant textiles can be found in museums around the world. However, today using gold or silver in our clothing is impractical and expensive. Although some couturiers still use it in their textiles the modern substitute is metallic fibers. The Dobeckmun Company produced the first modern metallic fiber in 1946. Currently metallic fibers are manufactured primarily in Europe and none are made in the United States. In the past aluminum has always been used as the base in a metallic fiber. More recently stainless steel has become a base as well. It is more difficult to work with but provides properties to the yarn that allows it to be used in more high tech applications.

Production
There are two basic processes used in manufacturing metallic fibers. The most common is the laminating process, which seals an aluminum layer in between polyester or acetate film. These fibers are then cut into lengthwise strips for yarns and wound onto bobbins. The metal can be colored and sealed in a clear film, the adhesives can be colored or the film can be colored. There are many different variations of color and effect that can be made in metallic fibers, producing a wide range of looks.

Metallic fibers can also be made by using the metalizing process. This process involves heating the metal until it vaporizes then depositing it at a high pressure onto the polyester film. Although this process makes the fibers more flexible and durable it is less commonly used.

Lurex®
The Lurex Company Limited has manufactured metallic fibers in Europe for over fifty years. They produce a wide variety of metallic fiber products including fibers used in apparel fabric, embroidery, braids, knitting, military regalia, trimmings, ropes, cords and lace surface decoration. The majority of Lurex® fibers have a polyamide film covering the metal strand but polyester and viscose are also used. The fibers are also treated with a lubricant called P.W., a mineral based oil, which helps provide ease of use.

Metallic Fiber Characteristics

• True metal fibers are heavy in weight compared to other fibers.
• Coated metallic fibers do not tarnish.
• The film on a metallic fiber makes it insusceptible to salt water, chlorinated water or climate conditions.
• Metallic fibers can come in many forms including braids, ribbons, and chains.

• The most common end use for metallic fibers is upholstery fabric and textiles such as Lamé and brocade.
• Many people also use metallic fibers in weaving and needlepoint.
• More commonly today you can find metallic fibers in clothing, anything from party and evening wear to club clothing to everyday wear. The shiny effect that the fibers create has become a symbol of the new millennium.
• Stainless steel and other metal fibers are used in communication lines such as phone lines and cable lines.
• Stainless steel fibers are also used in carpets. They are dispersed throughout the carpet with other fibers so that they are not detected. The presence of the fibers helps to conduct electricity so that the static shock is reduced. These types of carpets are often used in high volume computer areas where the chance of producing static is much greater.
• Tire Cord
• Missile nose cone
• Work clothing such as protective suits, space suits, cut resistant gloves for butchers and other people working near bladed or dangerous machinery.

Metallic fibers can be used in a variety of ways to create a variety of effects, from eveningwear to protective gear. They are becoming very popular in today’s fashion industry and in technical applications. Many designers have been using more and more metallic fibers and fabrics in their modern designs. Clothing that resembles space suits and other futuristic ideals have started to gain popularity. Modern advances in technology reflect into our daily lives. One of these ways is the common use of synthetic and metallic fibers.

Sources:

• Sara J. Kadolph, Anna L. Langford, Textiles. 8th ed. Prentice-Hall, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey, 07458, pages 134-5.
• Hatch, Kathryn. Textile Science. West Publishing Co. New York, 1993. Page 308.
• www.fibersource.com
• www.lurex.com